172 Oxford Street, Collingwood, VIC, 3066
Quite who Mary is isn’t especially apparent, but the pride is everywhere in evidence. The converted-warehouse cafe has all the exposed brick and polished concrete we know and love, yet here, in an urban-industrial first, it’s warm, human and homey. Like an urban-industrial breakfast nook. Much of this belongs to the service -a waitress offers us real cutlery to take away when a disposable set isn’t immediately found. Tina Turner mid power ballad doesn’t summon such genuine energy. (Our apologies if ‘Proud Mary’ is not in fact a Mrs T reference.)
A lively menu struggles not to be overshadowed by the coffee, with Spanish-accented hits such as the Pork Belly Sandwich with smoked paprika relish and aioli. ¬°Hola! But yes, in the end, the coffee steals the show -and not only because of the spanking blue six group Synesso, as well as a swag of grinders and syphons. The Brazilian sambas into a macchiato, and a nimble sweetness dances on the palate with flourishes of lime and a sultry acidity. The length of the shot – which definitely has legs – is matched by headpiece of delicately structured milk. Take a bow, Mary, wherever you are.
+613 9417 5930
mon – fri: 7am – 4pm sat – sun: 8am – 4pm
Proud Mary Origins